Sunday, March 27, 2011

Alma 33 Offers NY’s Most Creative Example of Argentina’s Exciting Cuisine

Alma 33 is located at 33 West 8 Street in Manhattan’s Greenwich Village.

They are open for dinner and late night on Sun-Tues from 5:30 PM – 1 AM, Wed-Sat from 5:30 PM – 2 AM, and for brunch Sat/Sun from 10 AM – 4 PM.

Lunch is coming soon. For more information, call 212-380-8794 or visit www.almanyc33.com.

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Exterior and Interior Photos: Zandy Mangold

Diverse Culture Comes to Life at Alma 33

What a joy to discover a fresh, affordable and fabulous restaurant such as Alma 33. Not only does it feel far more upscale than prices would suggest, but management, from reception at the door to waitstaff and buss-persons are incredibly nice.

You know something is special when your table receives a bottle of filtered water (filtered 5 times as a matter of fact) gratis. (A recent visit to a 4 star restaurant offered the same but at a hefty charge). When it come to food, you won’t be disappointed.

If a generous serving of Entraña—Argentinean grilled skirt steak, served with an assertive kiss of rosemary smoke under an ultra-chic glass dome—with a bold glass of Malbec doesn’t sound like an accessibly-priced meal, meet the dynamic, handsome young talent and recent Italian transplant, Enrico Primarti  who mans Alma’s stoves, Having spent time at Falai and the East Side Social Club since moving from Florence. His energy and passionare immediately apparent.

The other force at work is Richard Lusardi, a New Yorker of Argentinean descent, is bridging his deep understanding of the restaurant industry—he’s spent years on the managing teams at such big names as Craft, The Beacon, and Windows on the World—with his equally extensive experience as a consumer. The result? A budget-friendly experience that doesn’t skimp on quality, innovation, or fun. 

Both Richard and chef Enrico laugh about the all-too-common migration of Italians to Argentina. It’s with this in mind that they’ve devised a menu that is more inspired from the South American country and its myriad cultural influences than paying strict authentic tribute to it. And though they don’t share native tongues, Primarti and Lusardi speak about their craft with a mutual sense of soul—hence the name, Alma. (which means “soul” in Spanish).

 

Meet Alma 33, the new West Village eatery that’s serving Argentinean-inspired dishes with a heaping side of value-consciousness. (Below)

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The dining room—which housed former favorite Elettaria and was once one of Jimi Hendrix’s favorite places to jam—is recessed behind a vibrant bar area, with wide street exposures that offer views towards Washington Square Park and allow a sultry lighting to enter the space once the sun has set. Inside, restored barnwood beams from upstate New York adorn the ceiling and add instant warmth, while natural colors and fabrics in bronze, amber and gold add comforting touches, such as comfortable booths and tables and rustic burlap drapes. And unlike many other restaurants, the distinct dining room and bar spaces represent two completely unique experiences. The goal, says Lusardi, is to offer value and variety—a combo that he knows has won him over as a customer before and that he knows too few others offer in the city’s current restaurant scene.

Picadas, or appetizer-style Argentinean treats, are the name of the game in the bar area, where an ample list of highly affordable by-the-glass wines can compliment such delicacies as polenta lollipops with fontina fonduta. Here, perfect rounds of fried polenta—each playfully skewered onto a lollipop stick—come served with a dipping sauce of oozing fontina cheese, a play between the airy rounds and indulgent formaggio. A portion of sardinas is ideal to share, with freshly seared sardines and goat cheese layered onto Argentinean miga bread. It’s all drizzled with a pistachio and basil pesto, whose vegetal and earthy notes add depth and balances the sardine’s fishiness for extra refinement. Even if you are not a sardine fan, you will adore these babies.

Skirt steak skewers with chimichurri fulfill any typical Argentinean craving, but the Hojaldre offers a twist on the expected. Here, a lesser-known regional specialty that resembles the Italian gnocco pairs a typical Argentinean riff of puff pastry with mascarpone cream, jamon Serrano, and a balsamic glaze. Other wonders include crunchy sweetbreads with fennel puree and oranges and delicious  empanadas filled with red wine-braised short ribs and green olives or slow roasted chicken, bechamel, green peas and corn . We also adored the unusual mini sweet and hot peppers filled with pork, beef and herbs. For foodies, the appetizer star may be Tartara De Salmon salmon tartar with avocado, green apple and shaved fennel , which arrives under a glass dome, which when lifted, releases the subtle aroma of the house-smoked salmon. Superb!

Do as the Argentineans do and pair these picadas with a selection of international beers—five on tap and more than 15 by the bottle from South America to Spain and beyond. It’s a perfect pairing, whether enjoyed among large parties at high tables, a few friends in front of the sweeping windows watching passersby, or in any of the intimate nooks and crannies scattered throughout the restaurant’s front area.

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For the signature Entraña—Argentina’s most well known dish, here seared on the grill and then smoked with the essences of apple wood and rosemary—take a seat in the main dining room. There, a menu of composed pastas and entrees is available, representing some Argentinean classics and many more innovative twists on the country’s flavors.

For one such adventure, try the Ravioles Morcilla, described by chef Primarti as “Argentinean ingredients inside an Italian folder.” The pasta shells are stuffed with a combo of morcilla (Argentina’s take on boudin noir) and goat cheese, making for a more delicate introduction into the bold flavors the sausage presents. Risotta alla Parmigiana, too, works with the country’s bounty, offering thin ribbons of tender malbec-braised short ribs atop a classic risotto. A surprise twist: reggianito crunches and a finish of mascarpone add crunch and richness for a harmonious marriage of Italian and Argentinean tastes.

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Ravioles Morcilla 

After a few pastas, it’s natural to turn your attention to the heartier entrees. The Parrillada offers an obligatory opportunity to indulge the inner carnivore, with a variety of grilled cuts—Entraña, Sweetbreads, Morcilla and Chorizo—to share between two. alma Ostiones

For something a little lighter, the Ostiones (Pictured Above) are an inventive creation consisting of pan seared shrimp-crusted scallops that are set atop a delicate celeriac puree and drizzled with white truffle oil. There’s no greater temptation than to supplement any of these entrees with Alma’s sides—specifically, the Chauchas (sautéed haricot vert with garlic, almonds and raisins) and Papas Ala Provenzal (home-cut fries with a parsley and garlic gremolada).

In addition to a generous wine list with ample choices, red and white, at unbeatably accessible prices,(from $7 to $8, and each glass is available by the bottle). Alma 33 also offers an impressive selection of house-made cocktails designed by Lusardi himself. Inspired from his own days behind the bar, they include the Manquito—Tanqueray Gin, fresh lemon juice, Cassis as a splash of soda—and Las Uvas de la Ira, with muddled grapes and raw sugar as the sweet stars paired with Bushmills, apple juice and lime. 

For dessert, a rotating menu of specials offers numerous must-try options. Argentinean classics that Lusardi sourced from his childhood memories and family recipes include Panqueques de Dulce de Leche—flambeed crepes stuffed with the country’s caramel-like signature sweet—and a sponge-cake like treat called Pionono. Each pairs swiftly with a cup of fabulous coffee or shot of espresso, and in true Latin American style, Alma 33 has enlisted only the best—though many of New York’s top kitchens share their choice of Queens-based roaster Dallis Coffee, Alma is rare in employing their most high-end, Brazilian farmed Octavio Coffee line. Only have room for one sweet treat? Don’t miss the saffron panna cotta, a deeply fragrant custard that bears ample evidence of the kitchen’s attention towards sourcing the best ingredients, topped with a house-made mango chutney and dulce de leche drizzle.

The Attractive Bar Room Below

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Alma 33, with its $8 appetizers and  $15 entrees, puts so  many cookie-cutter, trendy restaurants to shame that it would be a real shame to not make a reservation ASAP.  Alma 33 . .  What’s Not To Like?

 

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Copyright 2011 By Punch In International. All Rights Reserved .

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Delmonico's: A Classic Forever

The Original Delmonico's Steakhouse Restaurant

56 Beaver St, NYC

Reservations 212.509.1144

Book A Table Here

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Delmonico's, opened in 1837 as America's first fine dining restaurant, continues to serve the connoisseur of fine American food in its premier location at 56 Beaver Street, the heart of Manhattan's financial district. Birthplace of the Delmonico Steak, Delmonico Potatoes, Eggs Benedict, Lobster Newburg, and Baked Alaska, the original Delmonico's offered unheard of luxury - the availability of private dining rooms, an extensive wine cellar, innovative cuisine, and, above all, warm, personal service.

Today,Delmonico’s continues to honor its heritage with the same warm hospitality and fine cuisine. The menu features many of the traditional dishes as well as a prime Delmonico steak, aged to perfection in their aging room. The decor remains eye-catching. High gilded ceilings, marble portals from Pompeii, over-sized oil paintings, period chandeliers and a spacious dining room,with mahogany wood accents and tables set with crisp white cloths.

 The Legendary Bar (Below) turns out some of the best classic cocktails in New York City

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The award winning wine list offers an international selection of some 29 pages, beautifully organized by country and region and fairly priced. There are 14 wines by the glass, ranging from $12 to $16. Look to Spain and Italy for some excellent values. We loved the complex and beautifully balanced 2006 Tolaini Valdisanti ($65). A Super Tuscan, it was perfect with grilled meats and had a long, lingering finish.

Wine List Rating: Wine On Line A Major

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Perfect starters for the table include a sparkling, fresh Shellfish Chateau (priced per person) including lovely Oysters, Lobster, King Crab, Blue Crab and Jumbo Shrimp. Another option is Oysters "Diamond Jim Brady" with Blue Point Oyster, Smoked Bacon Lardon, Champagne, Creme, and Crucolo Cheese. Absolutely delicious.

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While the Delmonico Steak, Vintage All Natural Angus Boneless Rib Eye, (Above) is nonpareil with its accompanying fried onion rings, there is an off-the-menu-T-bone that is terrific and the Veal Chop (Broiled Quebecois with All Natural Veal) may be the best in town. For something a bit more creative, try the double cut lamb chops, with their yogurt-topped vegetable and a hint of the Middle East.. All sides are recommended. Standouts include a crackling round of Hash Browns and an out of the ordinary Creamed Spinach.

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Delmonico's may be the only steak house in Manhattan where desserts are mandatory. Each one was a masterpiece. Favorites include Classic Baked Alaska , marrying Walnut Cake, Apricot Jam, Banana Gelato, and perfect Meringue ; New York Style Cheesecake, Cranberry and Orange Glaze, Chocolate Cookie Crust  and
Chocolate, Peanut Butter Mousse Cake with Salted Caramel Ice Cream. Managing Partner Dennis Turcinovic oversees service that is prompt, efficient and never overbearing. If I were pressed to pick I New York steak house to impress an out of town guest or business associate, Delmonico's would be it. Outstanding!

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Copyright 2011 By Punch In International. All Rights Reserved