Metroploitan Millionaire: April 2011

La Petite Maison

13-15 West 54th Street, NY, NY,

212-616-9931,

Open for dinner Sunday – Thursday, 5pm – 11pm and Friday – Saturday, 5pm – 12am. Lunch is served Monday – Friday, 11:30am – 4pm. Brunch is served Saturday – Sunday, 11:30am – 5pm Breakfast service will begin shortly. For reservations call 212.616.9931.

For the past 21 years La Petite Maison (11 Rue Saint-Francois de Paule, Nice France) has been the most beloved restaurant in Nice, France, tucked away between Place Massena and Old Nice. Celebrated Nice owner and creator Nicole Rubi has introduced the New York City location, which opened to the public on December 8^th, 2010 in the former Acquavit space.with owner David Barokas who also owns La Guerite restaurant on Le Iles de Reins and several other properties in Cannes

Known as the doyenne of the Nice restaurant scene due to her unique style of service as much as her signature Niçoise cuisine, Rubi welcomes a global celebrity clientele, including leading heads of state such as French president Nicolas Sarkozy and most recently Chinese president Hu Jintao.

The 142 seat, two floor restaurant has been designed by award-winning French architect, Cyril Durand Behar (Lancome Institute, The Grand Hotel in Cannes and Dolce & Gabbana boutiques), with the intention of capturing the spirit and conviviality of the celebrated restaurant while embracing a contemporary style fitting of New York City. Located behind the Museum of Modern Art, La Petite Maison is set in an old town house that previously belonged to the Rockefeller family. Private dining rooms and an eye catching market table filled with seasonal flavors of Nice, including extra virgin olive oil, vegetables and regional salts, can all be enjoyed on the main floor. A large bar surrounded by several tables ideal for a quick bite or casual tasting is also on this level.

Downstairs patrons will walk through an intimate lounge with accented furniture designed by artist Yves Klein, whose work is currently on display across the street at the MoMa. Beyod the lounge, the impressive main dining area unfolds under a vast atrium showcasing an open courtyard flanked by wooden shutters, reminiscent of the historic and charming passageways of Nice. The walls are covered with contemporary art from celebrated international artists, just as they are in Nice. Leading the charge is Jean-Daniel Lorieux, one the most famous photographers of his generation, with many more talented artists to follow. For the true experience of the restaurants, request to be seated in this area.

In order to capture the signature culinary elements of the renowned La Petite Maison cuisine, Barokas and Rubi appointed Nice native Alain Allegretti (Allegretti restaurant; Atelier and Le Cirque) as consulting Chef and Arno Busquet (chef at the famed La Guerite in Cannes), as chef de cuisine. Previously Busquet was highly lauded for his work at Les Ombres at the Musée du Quai Branly in Paris, before which he spent almost ten years working with Joël Robuchon.

Consulting Chef Alain Allegretti

The tone is set when waiters bring guests small brown, paper bags filled with warm baguettes to dip in olive oil to enjoy with their cocktails. Long time fans of La Petite Maison will relish in the familiar signature dishes that Rubi intended for sharing. Her menu begins with The Flavors of Nice where she offers a tasting of her signature Provençale staples including: Petits Farçis Niçois (Stuffed baby vegetables Niçoise style); light and crispy Zucchini Blossom Beignets and the classic Pissaladière (an onion/olive tart reminiscent of pizza, served in squares), Rubi’s famed Artichoke Salad; and Warm Poached Shrimp and Basil Salad.

The menu also features their traditional Provençale Soupe de Poisson (fish soup with rouille). With its intense flavor, it is is a beautiful rendition. Other offerings include an unusual and highly recommended Roasted Bone Marrow with confit tomatoes, grainy mustard and toasted country baguette as well as Rubi’s decadent Black Truffle offerings, which include French style scrambled eggs; a lush Macaroni with fresh cream; and black truffle risotto among others.

Signature zucchini blossom beignets Tapenade

We especially enjoyed all the above as starters but recommend going easy: portions are large The kitchen’s real strong points are the well executed entrees. When in doubt, order any preparation for two and you won’t be disappointed. We loved the miraculous Roasted farmer’s chicken for two (preparation is 45 min.). At $55, it is a bargain and definitely in the race for the best roast chicken in town,

Also excellent, is Dover Sole cooked in butter (600g price for two persons) MP. Floured and quickly sautéed, it is beautifully filleted tableside and is crisp at the skin level and moist within. The accompanying mashed potatoes and green salad are paragons of perfection. For dessert, go for Lemon Sorbet, doused in Vodka or request a coupe, made with smooth chocolate ice cream and Chantilly Cream. Finish with excellent Cappuccino and you will be inordinately pleased.

There is a short and well chosen wine list that, with a little searching, offers some nice bottles under $100 and wines by the glass starting at $12. We loved the "Veuve Clicquot, Brut Rose‚, N/V" $25. It was full of bubbles and delectable fruit.

Service at La Petite Maison is casual, attentive and benevolent and for an offbeat experience that can be expensive or affordable, depending on your selection, La Petite Maison is a pleasant surprise, a welcome addition to the New York dining scene and one of the most interesting restaurants to open this year. And remember . . . that chicken requires 45 minutes advance notice. It’s definitely worth the wait!